Box turtle eggs can incubate successfully if left in the ground, but precautions may be needed to protect them from extreme climatic conditions and predators.

Many hobbyists enjoy incubating their turtle’s eggs artificially. When the female has finished laying, open the nest and carefully remove the eggs. A clean paintbrush is a useful tool for uncovering the eggs. Box turtle eggs can be successfully incubated in a variety of ways, but a few basic rules should be followed: (1) do not shake, rotate, or turn the eggs; (2) keep the temperature at about 80° F (27° C); (3) maintain the humidity at about 80%.

These conditions can be met by placing the eggs on a suitable substrate (moistened vermiculite, sphagnum moss, and damp paper towels have all been used with success) inside a suitable container (plastic shoeboxes or plastic margarine tubs are commonly used, with the lids kept on to help maintain the humidity). The container is placed in an incubator or in a location that remains slightly above room temperature such as a cupboard on top of a refrigerator or above a water heater. The eggs are checked regularly to make sure that the substrate remains damp. The eggs should hatch in 50-90 days. If you need more information on incubation please contact the Club.

HATCHLING CARE

It may take several days from “pipping” (the time when a hatchling first breaks through the shell) to the actual emergence of a box turtle from its egg. It is usually best to leave the hatchling alone as it tries to free itself from the egg other than gently spraying the eggs with tepid water to prevent dehydration and reduce the risk of egg-shell adhering to the hatchling. Once the turtle has hatched, you may notice a yolk sac attached to the underside. It is important that this sac is not ruptured so hatchlings should be left in their incubation containers for a day or two until the yolk sac is absorbed.

Once the egg sac is absorbed the turtles can be moved to a suitable terrarium. Some keepers provide an indoor set-up similar to that described above for the adults using a substrate of potting soil. However, because hatchlings are susceptible to dehydration many keepers house their hatchling box turtles in a more aquatic environment. A common set-up consists of a plastic sweater box that contains about one half inch of water in which are placed “islands” of wood, rock, or sphagnum moss that the hatchlings can easily climb out on. Alternatively the shoebox can be tilted so that one end contains water and the other end is dry. A small plastic planter cut in half can be added to provide a hide box. The water must be changed daily.

Hatchling box turtles are very shy and may not eat until they are several weeks old. Offer the food in a place where the hatchling will feel secure while eating. Some hatchlings will take Purina trout chow or cat food immediately. The best food to offer hatchlings that are reluctant eaters is live food such as small worms, slugs, or sow bugs. Over a few days, introduce other foods such as Purina trout chow, cat food and small pieces of fruit. Placing whatever the turtle is already eating on a new food item will increase the likelihood of getting them to eat it.

Hatchling and young box turtles should be kept away from adult turtles and other pets. If kept outside they should have their own enclosure where they are protected from predatory animals and birds. You must provide places for them to hide and a dish of water dish, large enough for them to soak in. Soaking stimulates a box turtles appetite and helps with elimination.